Emergency Parrot (Pet Bird) First-Aid

Your first option for any avian emergency is always to call your avian veterinarian and follow their advice and directions. This article is written for the cases when your first option isn't available. This article covers very basic first aid for your parrot. Most of the procedures in this article should only be used in emergency situations. And in most cases, the procedure just enables you to safely handle the situation until you can get your bird to an avian veterinarian. A trained avian veterinarian is always preferred to an inexperienced parrot owner when it comes to any avian emergency.

Warning: The first aid in the article should only be used in cases where your parrot is in a life threatening situation and getting your parrot to a veterinarian or consulting with a veterinarian isn't possible.

Warning: I am not a veterinarian and all of the information in this article has been found in books or in internet sources. You should consult your veterinarian before administering any first aid to your pet bird.

We'll begin this article by covering how to select a veterinarian. A list of all topics covered in this article is shown below. You my use these links to jump to a specific section.

1. Introduction
2. Selecting A Veterinarian
3. Your First-Aid Kit
4. Ingested Poisoning
5. Fumes Poisoning
6. Broken Blood Feather
7. Bleeding Wounds
8. Broken Bones
9. Burns
10. Egg Binding
11. Heat Stroke
12. Stress
13. Respiratory Tract Ailments
14. Digestive Tract Ailments
15. Common Signs of Sickness
16. Summary
17. Suggested Reading Material

1 - Introduction

An avian emergency can be any life-threatening injury or illness and can occur at any time. This article is written for the novice and not-so-novice parrot owner to cover three aspects of avian emergencies.

1. This article encourages the parrot owner into thinking ahead to possible emergency scenarios when their parrot requires First Aid. Being prepared is important.
2. This article provides the parrot owner with tips on recognizing and detecting possible problems. Being aware is also important.
3. This article provides transitory procedures for safely stabilizing and transporting your bird to an experience avian veterinarian. Being knowledgeable is also important.

Being prepared, aware, and knowledgeable may be the difference between saving your bird and not saving your bird.

2 - Selecting A Veterinarian

You should pick your vet as if your pet's life depends on it because its life very well may depend on your vet in the future. Choosing an avian veterinarian should be more involved than looking up the closest vet in your neighborhood. Not all veterinarians are avian specialist vets and the requirements for birds are very different than cats and dogs. You wouldn't go to a proctologist for a sore throat so please don't take your bird to a veterinarian that doesn't specialize in treating birds.

Veterinarian schools focus on dogs and cats which is appropriate because that is the bulk of their work. Your vet for your bird should be a CAS (Certified Avian Specialist). A vet often continues their formal education beyond the basic requirements of becoming a veterinarian to become a CAS. This is a board-certified title that is certified, at least in the US, by the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners (ABVP). To be board-certified by the ABVP, a vet must have been in practice for 5 years, pass a credentialing process, and pass a test on a species specialty. They are then allowed to call themselves a "specialist". You can recognize this certification in their title. They will include the terms "Diplomat ABVP" after the DVM part of their title. This signifies that they are board-certified by the ABVP. Don't rely on this certification alone. Verify that your vet also has sufficient avian experience and belongs to the AAV (Association of Avian Veterinarians) which also indicates a commitment to the understanding and treatment of birds.

Finding an avian specialist veterinarian isn't always easy. If your regular vet isn't an avian vet, ask them for recommendations. You can also ask friends with pet birds who they use for a veterinarian or consult the AAV for members in your area. You can also consult your local pet stores for recommendations.

3 - Your First-Aid Kit

After an emergency occurs, is not the time to try to put together your first-aid kit. Being prepared is key for any emergency and the first step is to put together a first-aid kit. You can purchase first-aid kits for birds or build your own which is usually much cheaper. The list below shows the items that should be included in your first-aid kit.

• Antibiotic powder and germicidal ointment (used to fight infection)
• Blood stopper
• Contact info for your vet (days, nights, weekdays, and weekends)
• Corn Starch. Styptic powder, or Styptic pencil (used to stop bleeding) See warning below.
• Cotton balls, cotton swabs, and Gauze squares
• Flashlight
• Honey or Karo Syrup (used to provide carbohydrates and energy)
• Hydrogen Peroxide (used for cleaning wounds)
• Infrared Lamp (250 watts - large birds) or Hospital Cage (small birds)
• Nail Clippers
• Needle-Nose pliers or sturdy tweezers
• Pepto Bismol or Kaopectate (used for some cases of poisoning)
• Pet carrier (used to transport your sick bird to the vet)
• Plastic eyedropper (used for administering fluids and irrigating wounds with water)
• Powdered Gatorade or Pedialyte (used to provide energy and electrolytes)
• Roll of gauze for bandaging
• Scissors
• Surgical tape or Masking tape (used for taping bandages)
• Towel for restraining your bird
• First Aid Book or Instruction Pamphlet for birds

The use for most of these items is obvious except for maybe the infrared lamp. Birds typically have a high metabolic rate. One of the first things that can happen with a sick bird is that it stops eating correctly. This can lead to a drop in body temperature and possibly hypothermia that can be deadly. The ideal temperature to nurse a sick bird is about (30C, 86F) which can be provided by the hospital cage or the infrared lamp. The infrared lamp should be a "dull-emitter" type that radiates heat and not light. Some people have also used heated blankets (with the cord carefully concealed) in the bottom of the cage or a heated blanket draped over part of the cage. It is important to drape it over only part of the cage. This will give the bird a place to get away from the heat if it wants to.

Before continuing, there are a few words of caution. The first word of caution is about styptic powder and styptic pencils. Some vet's don't recommend their use. Instead, they recommend a corn starch solution. Styptic pencils may cause feather, follicle, or eye damage. However, it may be acceptable to use the styptic pencil on a clipped nail. Secondly, masking tape is usually recommended because surgical tape tends to stick to feathers.

4 - Ingested Poisoning

There are several possible symptoms of poisoning. These may include bloody droppings, vomiting, regurgitation, diarrhea, convulsions, paralysis, or irritated skin around the mouth. It is very important to identify the type of poisoning before calling your vet. You vet may or may not recommend Pepto Bismol or Kaopectate before transporting your sick bird. Do not administer these items without advice from your vet. The dosage depends on the poison, the bird species, and the size of the bird. You may also need the eyedropper to administer the medicine if needed. There are a couple lists to consult for common hazards. The Top Ten List of Dangerous Human Foods lists some common foods that can be toxic to your pet bird. The Top Ten List of Dangerous/Poisonous Common Household Items includes items around the house that may be toxic. Common toxic woods and plants can be found in the Natural Woods. Safe or Not? and Plants. Safe or Not? articles. There is also a hotline for the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA). There is a fee of $50 (per case) at 888-426-4435 or 900-443-0000.

5 - Fumes Poisoning

Birds are very susceptible to toxic fumes. Some of the common causes can be found in the The Top Ten List of Dangerous/Poisonous Common Household Items list. These include scented candles, cleaning products, paint, carpet-cleaning vapors, smoke, Teflon Toxicity, aerosol sprays, and self-cleaning ovens. The first option is to "remove the bird from the environment". This may require that you take the bird outside (using the pet carrier if needed) or to a neighbors house (if cold outside). If your first option isn't possible, you should "remove the environment from the bird". You can open all the windows and put fans on the windows to speed the process. After the bird is in a safe place away from the fumes, you can call your vet to see if it is necessary to make a trip to the vet's office.

6 - Broken Blood Feather

This is a case where you may not have time to take your bird to the vet and you may need to administer life saving first aid. Use the following steps to treat a broken blood feather.

1. Remain as calm as possible to ensure that your bird remains calm
2. Restrain your bird (using a towel if required)
3. If the bleeding isn't profuse, consult your vet. If it is severely bleeding, continue to the next step
4. Use Tweezers or Needle-Nosed pliers to remove the feather. Grasp it near the skin, hold the area where the feather enters the skin, and pull using a smooth, constant, firm pressure.
5. If the follicle oozes blood, apply pressure with a cotton ball, cotton swab, Gauze square, or towel for two minutes
6. If the previous step didn't stop the bleeding, you may need to apply Cornstarch to stop the bleeding. A styptic pencil or powder is NOT recommended for blood feathers.
7. Keep the bird warm and calm during a one-hour observation period

A few notes about this procedure are required. If the break is near the skin then it won't be possible to grasp it to remove it. In this case apply pressure to the point of bleeding and take the bird to the vet immediately. Avoid jerking or wiggling the feather when you pull it. If it breaks at the skin or just under the skin, it won't be possible to remove it. After you successfully pull the feather then most likely the bleeding will stop. Apply pressure if the bleeding doesn't stop. If you still can't stop the bleeding after pulling the feather and applying pressure then it likely has a break near or just under the skin. You should continue to apply pressure and take the bird to the vet immediately. If you are able to successfully stop the bleeding then during the one-hour observation period is a good time to consult your vet (if you haven't already). You may still need to take a trip to the vet if your bird has lost a lot of blood or appears weak or tired. Your vet will advise you if you need to bring the bird in for a visit. Your vet may prescribe antibiotics to prevent infections. Remember that birds are very small and what appears to be a small amount of blood loss to a human may be a significant loss to a bird. Also, any wound caused by another animal is very serious and should be treated as an avian emergency even if the wound is minor.

7 - Bleeding Wounds

Bleeding wounds can be common for active parrots. Toys, cages, falls, or household items can all cause injuries that result in bleeding. Here are the steps for treating bleeding wounds.

1. Remain as calm as possible to ensure that your bird remains calm
2. Restrain your bird (using a towel if required)
3. Use a cotton ball, cotton swab, or Gauze square to apply pressure to the wound to stop the bleeding
4. Irrigate the wound using water and the plastic eyedropper
5. Wash the wound with hydrogen peroxide
6. Apply antibiotic powder
7. Observe your pet bird closely for one-hour

During the one-hour observation period is a good time to consult your vet if you haven't already. You may still need to take a trip to the vet if your bird has lost a lot of blood or appears weak or tired Your vet will advise you if you need to bring the bird in for a visit. Your vet may prescribe antibiotics to prevent infections. Remember that birds are very small and what appears to be a small amount of blood loss to a human may be a significant loss to a bird.

8 - Broken Bones

Two of the most common broken bones for a bird are the legs and wings. Your bird may have a broken wing if it's wing droops or if it only moves one wing. Your bird may have a broken leg if it is having difficulty perching or if it can't control one of its legs. Another possible sign of a broken leg is if it keeps one leg raised in the air. This is also a common stance for some birds so you should know your bird and know if it is a common behavior or if it is a sign of a problem. There isn't much to do in the case of broken bones. You should stabilize the bird, move it as little as possible and take it to the vet immediately. You should also call ahead to inform your vet that you are on your way. It will be more comfortable for your bird if you fill the bottom of its carrier with soft towels when you transport it to the vet. Some recommend that the perches be removed from the carrier to keep the bird from trying to perch.

9 - Burns

Your bird flies to the stove and lands on the hot skillet. What do you do? Just like with humans, burns are difficult to treat. The treatment for a burn depends on what type of burn it is. If it is burn from boiling water then misting cool (not cold) water or administering cool (not cold) water with your plastic eyedropper will relieve the pain. You may also apply aloe (100% pure aloe) to the wound. Caution: Never use burn salves made for humans. If it is a burn from grease then you should first remove the grease to prevent your bird from absorbing it. This can be accomplished using flour or cornstarch to absorb the grease. You may then treat it with cool water and aloe (100% pure aloe). Chemical burns require more involved first aid. If it is an acid burn (such as drain cleaner) then the acid must first be neutralized. Begin by irrigating the wound with water using your plastic eyedropper. The acid can then be neutralized using a baking soda and water paste. If it is an alkali chemical (such as ammonia) then it should be irrigated with cool water and neutralized with household vinegar.

Depending on the severity of the burns, a trip to the vet may still be required. Your vet may prescribe antibiotics to prevent infections. Call your vet for advice.

10 - Egg Binding

This is obviously only a problem for hens. This may be difficult to diagnose but the bird may stay at the bottom of the cage, have difficulty perching, be unsteady on its feet, appear tired or weak, and have a swollen belly. There are some things that you can do to help. Be very careful when handling the bird to avoid breaking the egg. This can lead to peritonitis. Place her inside her carrier and into a hot, humid bathroom. Running a hot shower will provide the heat and the humidity. The ideal temperature is about 30C or 86F. Check the temperature frequently. You can regulate the temperature by turning the water on and off. Call your vet and describe your bird's symptoms. You vet may advise you to wait a couple hours or advise you to bring the bird in for expert attention. Egg occurs more frequently in young hens and older hens. It is often caused by a calcium deficiency and can be treated by the vet using a calcium injection or as a last resort by performing surgery.

11 - Heat Stroke

Heat stroke is sometimes difficult to diagnose in birds. An overheated bird will often hold its wings away from its body and pant like a dog. A bird suffering from heat stroke will show these signs along with an inability to focus or fainting. If your bird has been in a hot environment and shows these symptoms then you must lower its body temperature immediately. Follow these steps to treat for heat stroke.

1. Move the bird to a cool, ventilated place
2. Mist with cool (not cold) water
3. Offer cool water, Gatorade or Pedialyte, to drink
4. Monitor the bird for improvement

You may still need to take the bird to the vet so give the vet a call and seek advice.

12 - Stress

Symptoms of stress can be anything from behavior problems such as aggression, major change in behavior, or feather plucking. You must first eliminate the possibility of it being a health problem. Taking your bird to the vet for a checkup will eliminate this possibility. If it isn't a health problem then the cause of the stress for your bird can be something that seems insignificant to you like a new piece of furniture added into the bird's room or a new toy added into it's cage. Stress can also be caused by more obvious changes to your bird's environment such as introducing new predators (cats or dogs) into your bird's environment. The second step in treating stress (after eliminating possible health problems) is determining the cause of the stress. The obvious solution and third step is to remove what is creating the stress from the bird's environment.

However, stress isn't the only possible cause of feather plucking. Poor nutrition, food allergies, boredom and lack of bathing may also cause it. Some symptoms of stress such as feather plucking won't automatically go away after the stress is removed. One reason for this is because the bird may be getting attention for its feather plucking that it wasn't getting before the plucking started. So the bird has learned that feather plucking equals attention which is what all pet birds crave. The key to eliminating feather plucking is to avoid giving the bird attention (good or bad) when plucking but give attention and praise when it does desirable behaviors (talking, playing, etc). This may take a considerable amount of time. If the situation doesn't improve then you should consult your veterinarian.

13 - Respiratory Tract Ailments

To identify a possible problem breathing, watch your birds tail while it is at rest. If the breathing is labored, the tail will often move up and down. Another more obvious sign of a respiratory tract ailment is wheezing, noisy breathing, a discharge from the nostrils or blocking of the nostrils. There isn't much for you to do for first aid but there are several options available to your veterinarian. You should seek your vet's advice immediately. Your vet may use decongestants or antibiotics to treat the ailment.

14 - Digestive Tract Ailments

To identify digestive ailments, look for a change in the bird's droppings, and other signs of sickness such as huddling in the bottom of its cage. These can be caused by something irritating the digestive tract or by an infection. Like respiratory ailments, there isn't much that you can do in this case. You should consult your veterinarian immediately. There are also some precautions that you can take to prevent or minimize the possibility of digestive tract ailments. Good hygiene when preparing the birds food is critical. Vermin infected foods, unclean foods, or spoiled foods can contaminate your bird's food. Always ensure that your bird is provided with clean fresh foods.

15 - Common Signs of Sickness

Knowing your bird's normal behaviors is critical to recognizing any abnormal behaviors. There are several possible indicators of a sick bird. Some of the common indicators are shown below.

• Any abnormal behavior
• Change in droppings (see below)
• Diminished activity
• Dull or sunken eyes
• Favoring a wing or leg
• Huddling in the bottom of the cage
• Lack of interest in preening
• Loss of appetite
• Off color
• Partially closed or completely closed eyes
• Problems perching
• Refusing favorite treats
• Two-footed perch instead of its normal one-footed perch
• Unusually ruffled feathers

As mentioned above, a change in your bird's droppings may be an indication of a problem. A normal dropping consists of the dark solid feces, white semi-solid urates, and liquid urine. A change in color, consistency, or frequency or droppings should be noted. Be aware that the diet may also affect the droppings. For example, eating fruit with a high water content (apples, grapes, and some vegetables) may cause the droppings to be watery. Or eating cheese, grains, or bread may cause the droppings to be firmer. Colored foods may also lead to a color change in droppings. So just be aware of what your bird has eaten before worrying about a change in their droppings. Changes in the dropping due to food will quickly change when the food is removed. Here are some examples of indicators in the droppings.

• Undigested food seeds or particles
• Lime Green urates can be a sign of Psittacosis
• Whitish-pink to red droppings can signify a heavy-metal toxicity
• Yellow droppings can indicate liver problems
• Stress droppings are usually watery

16 - Summary

Your first option for any avian emergency is always to call your CAS veterinarian and follow their advice and directions. A trained CAS veterinarian is always preferred to an inexperienced parrot owner when it comes to any avian emergency. Hopefully this article will help you to recognize Urgent situations and Not-So-Urgent situations. Urgent situations often indicate a life-threatening situation and require immediate care. Urgent situations include bites, uncontrollable bleeding, burns, poisoning, difficulty breathing, blood in the dropping, and egg binding. Not-So-Urgent situations include minor eye injuries, sudden swellings, lack of interest in food, diarrhea. Depending on the severity, a Not-So-Urgent situation can quickly become an Urgent situation so careful observation is often required. Not-So-Urgent situations also require veterinarian care.

17 - Suggested Reading Material

Here is a list of suggested reading material.